![]() I would not attempt to saw lumber of the same dimension and use it as depicted. Long spans in post and beam construction utilize engineered lumber to reach higher strength values than you would get with solid sawn lumber of the same dimensions. They are typically stood up and connected to each other with purlins and girts to form what is called a bay) (A bent is a pre-assembled timberframe section that may or may not include rafters. This is much different than a traditional truss frame or bent post frame. For the "kingbeam"the correct term for this is ridge beam as you have already identified and it is supported by a ridge post at either end of the span. It differs from true TF construction and utilizes engineered lumber and usually has steel hardware joinery vs. The building that is shown in Beenthere's posts is what is called Post and Beam style construction. It will be very helpful in ongoing conversations. Thanks for any further help you can give.Ĭheck out the link for the Glossary at the top of the page. The rafters would then run from the outside walls to the king beam.Are there other beams running parallel to the king beam? Is there no need for collar ties? What would the framing/support for the insulation look like? Again please excuse my lack of knowledge but although I can do a good job of producing projects from plans I have poor ability to visualize things in three dimensions. These would support a 15' king beam at 12"x2" or whatever code says. ![]() From the last two replies I believe I can use the gable end with a bent running from the roof ridge to the footing and use my weight bearing wall dividing the two areas of the cottage in a similar manner. I've always used traditional framing with either trusses or rafters and ridge pole. I guess my problem is that although I have built quite a few buildings I have not tackled something like this before. The pictures of the 24'x30' addition are pretty close what I hope to achieve. This was all my own design work so there are no copyright infringement issues involved. I am more than willing to share plans and info should you like. A nice additional touch to this is a balcony/loft with clerestory windows or even a rooftop deck. Turning it sideways allows you to have a vaulted ceiling with exposed beams but your max unsupported span is 16' as posts/support can be used in a center wall. It was about the dimensions you describe and a similar floorplan with open living/kitchen/dining. Everything is still in pretty rough form.Īs a kid, My aunt and uncle had a 2 bdrm, 1 floor cottage on Lake Erie that turned the floor plan sideways. We are in the process of completing the inside right now and I haven't got to building the porch yet. All mechanical equipment will be housed outside to save space as well. Notice used pocket doors to save space and there are no halls. ![]() If you don't need the stairs/loft then it would work fine although it is rather compact for furniture placement etc. The 25'X33' is just a little tight around the kitchen island and spiral stairs. ![]() If I were building my house over again I would go to a 24'W X 40' L with 10'OC bents. I would stick with the 24'-26' wide dimension and add more length if you can. I am not recommending this, especially with a 30' span, however, it can be engineered. I placed them on ICF walls with extra steel reinforcement and short spans to serve as a sort of buttress and limit thrust and the stress on the spline and dovetail rafter joints. That said, I used a splined tie-beam so I could use two shorter timbers. Since its only one beam you could even hew it so you wouldn't need bed extensions for your WM. If you have a tree large enough on site to make a 30' tie beam for a kingpost or queen post truss and have the ability to handle it then there is no reason you can't do it. 24-26' seems to be the maximum practical span if anything has to be transported to the site. ![]() I used a 25X33 foot print for the span reason previously mentioned. You are describing the cottage I have built ![]()
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